Checking in: a stylish new pub with rooms in Sussex's town of the moment, Fittleworth
This higgledy-piggledy 14th century coaching inn sits on the southern fringes of the pretty village of Fittleworth in the South Downs National Park. The pub itself is steeped in history – once a retreat for travellers and renowned artists and writers, some guests 200 years ago even traded board for artworks, many of which now line the wood-panelled dining room.
Although the pub, restaurant and rooms have recently been renovated following a four year closure, there isn’t anything precious about The Swan Inn. Locals drink pints, dogs (and children) sprawl by well-stoked fires, and you get the sense you would be just as welcome for a quick drink as a hearty dinner and a night in one of the 12 rooms. For those staying over, it has all the comforts of a smart hotel, but the relaxed charm of a country inn. Just an hour and 20 minutes from London and less than 10 minutes drive from nearby Petworth, it is both a local haunt and the sort of place that is well worth the train ride. It’s the kind of environment that the pub’s manager, Angus Davies, who previously ran The Hollist Arms in Lodsworth, is known for: convivial, relaxed and reliable. We live 20 minutes down the road and, even though there are many closer options, I’m appointing this our local.
Interior designer Zanna Westgate, in close collaboration with Angus, led on the interiors, which are just the sort you’d hope to encounter in a country pub. There are thick, generous curtains and rich Edward Bulmer tones on the walls, which are fittingly full of art that feels rooted to where you are – everything from photographs of local sights to oils depicting rural scenes, one of which is even by Constable’s rather lesser known cousin.
There are 12 ensuite rooms, all named after the pub’s noteworthy former guests, such as Elgar, Pankhurst and Constable. Ten are in the main pub and there are two family and dog friendly rooms in the converted stable block in the rear garden. Seven of them have roll-top baths, but all of them feel generous and thoughtful. They have all the quirks you’d expect of a country inn – low beams and slightly eccentric level changes. That, of course, is part of their charm. All are sympathetic to the 14th-century building and feel like they could have always been that way thanks to the charming combination of pretty fabrics by the likes of Penny Morrison and Volga Linen, loose pleat lampshades by Imogen Pope and bedspreads from Birdie Fortescue. Although there is no spa at The Swan, the Verden shampoos, conditioners and hand washes throughout the pub and rooms are wonderfully spoiling.
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‘Unfussy classics’ is Angus’s tagline for the food – and the menu offers just that. There are devilled kidneys on toast, plates of langoustines, rabbit terrines and a delightfully old-school ham with boiled potatoes and parsley sauce. Angus has opted for the best available, rather than necessarily local, so there is beef from Wye Valley, langoustines from Scotland and cheese from Berkshire. But the menus are largely seasonal and the food feels appropriate for the setting.
Another nice touch is that there is a good offering of sharing meals – everything from rib of beef racks (sold by the weight for between 2 or 6 people and crossed off the blackboard once they’re gone) to chateaubriand or a whole Dorset crab. We opted for separate dishes – a melt in your mouth braised beef cheek and a delicious halibut fillet – but joined forces on pudding at Angus’s suggestion and enjoyed what is perhaps the best tarte tatin I’ve ever eaten. Rich and unbelievably moreish, served with a dollop of vanilla ice cream to cut through it all. I particularly loved that there are all-day substantial bar snacks too – think cheese burgers, plates of salami, venison sausage rolls and substantial cheese straws.
Drinks-wise, there is a strong local offering – beer from nearby Burning Sky Brewery and Harvey’s, delicious champagne cider from nearby Two Orchards and an English sparkling by local Ambriel. There is a great by-the-glass house red, plus a 150-bottle-strong cellar, and it’s well worth trying the raspberry eau de vie – but be warned, it’s potent. Don't miss the well-stocked Delft tiled honesty bar for those staying, which is located in a little nook off the upstairs hallway. There is a great range of snacks, homemade cakes and of course drinks, including local Ringden Farm apple juice if you’ve hit it a little too hard on the eau de vie downstairs.
Breakfast is served in the barn at the rear – there’s a delicious, included in the price, spread as well as a brilliant DIY Bloody Mary station. There is also a hot breakfast menu, priced per dish, and the bacon sandwich is superior.
A nifty little fold-out map given to guests on arrival gives you the perfect weekend itinerary. Petworth – a must-visit for those who fancy a spot of weekend antiquing – is less than a 10-minute drive away. While there, go for a walk in the 700-acre deer park or pop into Newlands House Gallery to see its latest exhibition of 20th century art. A quick drive out of Petworth will take you to The Maker’s Barn, a treasure trove for pieces made by local craftspeople and run by the brilliant coppicer Rosie Rendell. There are brilliant walks straight from the pub’s front door – aided by the stash of wellies, waterproofs and dog leads in the hallway – including access onto the 65-mile long Serpent Trail.
swaninnfittleworth.com | double rooms from £195, bed and breakfast.
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