Edinburgh is a cosmopolitan city that is bursting with beauty, grandeur and a plethora of exciting things to do. The atmospheric Old Town with its vennels (ancient alleyways), medieval tenements and winding streets is a wonderful contrast to the grand majesty of the Georgian New Town. This is a city steeped in history and it is unmissable all around you, from Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace to the unfinished national monument on Calton Hill inspired by the Parthenon in Athens. However, Edinburgh is far from being a collection of monuments; it is also a city living in the moment, alive with cultural opportunities including many museums and galleries, award-winning restaurants, pubs and theatres. It positively explodes with culture in August when the Edinburgh Festival and Fringe Festival are running, when it is possible to see anything from international opera stars to drag queens and vampires and everything in between. Whatever time of year you are visiting these are just a few of the many things you could be doing with 48 hours to spend in Edinburgh.
The best things to do in Edinburgh
For those with cultural leanings, a whistle-stop tour of The National Museum of Scotland is a good place to start. Located on Chambers Street on the southern extremities of the Old Town, these two modern buildings house collections covering Scottish culture, history, science and technology. Highlights include the Lewis Chessman, a C12th chess piece made of walrus ivory, Dolly the sheep, (the first example of a cloned mammal), a life size 12-metre cast of a T-Rex and one of Elton John’s suits. Entry is free.
Soak in the atmosphere of the Old Town by walking from the Grassmarket up to Victoria Street, a charming, cobbled street which is said to be J.K. Rowling’s inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books. This curved road with its colourful shop fronts is populated with lots of interesting independent shops from tweed specialists Walker Slater to Museum Context, a must for Harry Potter enthusiasts. The Red Door Gallery is great for art prints and creative gifts and I.J. Mellis is a mecca for cheese enthusiasts.
It’s then worth walking up the Royal Mile (which runs from the Castle Esplanade to the Scottish Parliament) to see the view from Edinburgh Castle even if you don’t want to look around. The castle contains many interesting things from the Stone of Destiny (an ancient symbol of Scotland’s monarchy) to the Honours of Scotland (the oldest crown jewels in Britain) to the one o’clock gun, which is still fired everyday. Make sure you book a ticket and best to go in the morning. If you're here during the festival why not book tickets for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, which is held in the Edinburgh Castle Esplanade.
Two galleries and a sculpture garden make up this wonderful collection of art. Housed in two opposing Georgian mansions surrounded by a garden with over 20 sculptures, this is a place to come and recharge after the hustle and bustle of the city. Modern One houses all things contemporary whilst Modern Two has an impressive collection of Dada and Surrealist works, as well as works by Hockney, Picasso and Pollock. The reconstructed studio of the celebrated late Italian-Scottish artist Eduardo Paolozzi complete with sculptures, models, books and toys is also worth a visit. Admission is free apart from touring exhibitions.
For something different, head to the dynamic district of Leith, which sits on the shores of the Firth of Forth, at the mouth of the Water of Leith. This trendy port district is where the Edinburgh hipsters hang out and is worth visiting for the independent shops and fabulous restaurants. Head to the Pitt street food market and browse the vintage record and clothes stores whilst sampling award-winning street food. The Royal Yacht Britannia is stationed in Leith and worth a visit; here you can nose around the late Queen’s favourite room and the surprisingly understated state rooms.
Princes Street is the place to head to when you want to take in the splendid Georgian architecture of the New Town designed by James Craig in 1767. Those with a head for heights should climb the gothic Scott Monument. This was built in honour of Sir Walter Scott and it is worth ascending the 287 steps to enjoy the extraordinary views of this beautiful city. It can be busy at times but any visit to Edinburgh will incorporate Princes Street inevitably, seeing as the station, tram and airport bus all find their way there, so you may as well soak it up – then find somewhere to escape to.
Work off your breakfast with a hike up Calton Hill for another fabulous view. From here you can see everything from Holyrood Palace, the Scottish Parliament, Arthur’s Seat, Leith and the Firth of Forth as well as Edinburgh Castle in the distance. The unfinished National Monument based on the Parthenon in Athens was built to commemorate the Scottish servicemen who died in the Napoleonic Wars. The Greek-style City Observatory built by Edinburgh architect William Henry Playfair in 1818, has been lovingly restored and opened to the public in 2018. The Collective Gallery is also located in the observatory and is a free contemporary art space with regular exhibitions.
While away an afternoon meandering around the 70 acres of the Edinburgh Royal Botanic Garden whilst enjoying the view of the city’s skyline in the distance. The Victorian glasshouses are awesome and are composed of ten structures each with its own climate, so you can immerse yourself in a world of giant lily pads, tropical plants, rare orchids and cyceds. Private tours are available too.
Feast your eyes on artworks by Titian, Constable and Rembrandt as well as paintings by Scottish artists such as Traquair and Raeburn at the very manageable Scottish National Gallery. The gallery is made up of two buildings which are now joined by the smart East Princes Street Garden Entrance. Admission is free apart from touring exhibitions.
Stockbridge is the area where in-the-know locals base themselves and it's become the place to be in recent years. There are brilliant places to eat (Lannan, Stockbridge Eating House and The Scran and Scallie are but some highlights), open green spaces, independent shops and a weekly market on a Saturday that should definitely feature on any foodie's visit.
For your final night book a show at Scotland’s well-known new writing theatre, Traverse. The theatre is renowned for championing exciting new talents and its festival programme always contains work that spans a broad spectrum of stories and perspectives. The bar is also a hot spot during the festival.
Where to eat in Edinburgh
Foodies love Forage and Chatter, an under the radar in Edinburgh’s West End that serves locally sourced Scottish cuisine. Bijou but welcoming, the restaurant has a friendly vibe with its exposed brickwork, wooden tables and potted plants. The menu changes daily but the Orkney scallops, rump of lamb and pork belly have rave reviews across the board. Decent wine list too.
Potentially the best bakery in the UK right now, Lannan has queues out the door on a daily basis for its impeccable selection of pastries and cakes. It is flawless and there are regularly changing delights to their offering, including such wonders as rhubarb, pistachio and tonka croissants, sour cherry, cardamom and pistachio cream splits and bergamot and olive oil croissant tarts. This is where to come for the best pastries and viennoiseries you'll ever try, so come hungry and prepared to wait.
Just up the road from Lannan is Stockbridge Eating House, whose head chef is the partner of Lannan's owner – a real food power couple. It describes itself as a ‘communal eating house’ serving hearty fare that goes down a treat. The menu is small, ever-changing and always tempting. Best of all, any meal here feels like you're with your very best friends in their house.
If you've been exploring the National Museum and university buildings and are in need of a good sandwich, coffee, juice or sweet pick-me-up, Thomas J Walls on Forrest Road is a brilliant option. It feels a little Viennese inside, but with a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere and succinct but tempting menu.
For a great rooftop view of the castle head to the Grassmarket and Cold Town House for a refreshing beer or cocktail. The drinks menu is extensive here and there is something for everyone, from draught beers through to signature cocktails, wine and whisky. They also serve tasty pizza and burgers.
Those wanting a more culinary experience should head to Timberyard, a Scandi-inspired restaurant that has created waves on the Edinburgh restaurant scene. Here it is all about seasonal fare combined with Nordic flavour - think pickling, curing and foraging and you have the picture. The tasting menu includes dishes such as razor clams with gooseberry and veal sweetbreads with pheasant back mushroom. Sit back and enjoy the vibe washed down with a fine wine from the refreshingly extensive list.
Treat yourself with a slap-up lunch at one of Leith’s Michelin-starred restaurants. The latest on the block is Heron, which is the first restaurant from Sam Yorke and Tomás Gormley - in fact they are the youngest chefs to win the award. Feast on Orkney scallops and Scottish oysters while enjoying the waterside view.
Tom Kitchin's The Kitchin is another Michelin-starred destination restaurant which serves well-presented, inventive plates. Make sure you book.
For award winning sushi head to Kanpai, a wonderful spot in the Old Town. This pretty restaurant with its light wooden benches and cherry-blossom mural is a great place for a pre-theatre dinner. Everything here is marvellous: make sure to order some tempura and always try a couple of dishes off the specials menu.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
For a luxurious night in the New Town book a room at the Gleneagles Townhouse, the 33 room private members club and sister hotel to the well known Gleneagles Hotel in Auchterarder. Located in the former British Linen Headquarters on St Andrew Square this fabulous hotel exudes opulence in the right way. The old domed banking hall with its marble columns, giant palms, ornate ceiling and Art Deco mirror bar is now the Spence Brasserie, where one can enjoy a bistro style meal and a well mixed cocktail. The rooms which come in three categories: nook, middle or master, also have an art deco vibe, mixing velvet with pastel hues, classical style furniture and oriental rugs. Hotel guests can enjoy most of the perks of the members and there is a spa located in the old bank vaults for those wanting a little TLC after sightseeing.
